Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Benefits of encouraging the New Zealand clothing manufacturing industry:

New Zealand is known internationally for its creative merits, in fact the Martin Prosperity institute regards New Zealand to be number six in the top sixteen most creative countries. New Zealand's fashion industry is a crucial contributor to the creative attributes of New Zealand this can be illustrated with New Zealand fashion week. Over one week up to forty designers showcase their looks. These shows are available to the general public, consumers, VIP's, international delegates, media, and buyers. A successful Kiwi designer is Karen Walker. Not only is she well known domestically but also internationally. Karen Walker's garments are sold as far and wide as London, Tokyo, New York, Hong Kong and Sydney. Unfortunately and rather disappointingly Karen Walker clothing is made not in New Zealand but elsewhere in Asia. Most likely because Asian manufacturing has been proved to be significantly more economic. 


The economic factor being the obvious reason for New Zealand designed garments being manufactured offshore, there are may other considerable benefits of manufacturing in New Zealand. In order to uplift this industry changes will need to be made. The government should enforce more regulations on the management of importing and exporting goods. Sewing and textile design should be focused on and encouraged in schools across the country. An organization solely concerned with the industry could be set up to help fund locally owned clothing producers so they are able to purchase more and more technically advanced equipment to manage with larger and increasingly varied orders. A campaign which takes advantage of the advertising tactic "made in New Zealand" should be exposed positively and therefore the importance on garments being "made in New Zealand" will be enhanced. Most importantly the government needs to put more money into the clothing manufacturing industry in order to influence locally owned manufacturers to lower their prices. This will have many benefits for not only the industry itself but also New Zealand's fashion industry and on a wider level New Zealand's gross national income (GNI).


Producing garments in New Zealand means that the manufacturing is locally quality controlled. We are not supporting the possibility of inhumane behavior in foreign sweatshops. Not only are we able to more carefully manage the quality standards of clothing, we are also supporting an increase in employment in this specific area. New Zealand born designers will have a more accessible and affordable opportunity to have their designs come to life. As a country we have a wide range of fabrics which are in high demand, such as leather, and New Zealand merino knits we even specialize in organic and eco fabrics. These are showcased here. It seems to make sense to have a highly functional clothing producing industry to compliment our country's creative and resource assets.




Tuesday, 16 April 2013

Reasons for the current state of clothing manufacturing industry in New Zealand:

When clothing manufacturing in New Zealand was at it's height in the early 1980's an organization named the Industry Development Commission analyzed the industry and concluded that there was an abundance of factories making too small amount of various garments. This led to the commissioners encouraging these businesses to collaborate and combine in order to make a more efficient, successful industry. Unfortunately this did not work as planned and in fact clothing manufacturing companies in New Zealand struggled to maintain their previous successes once combined. In fact a common trend found is that many New Zealand owned clothing producers shifted their operations offshore due to lower labor costs. 


Although this was a contributor to the demise of the clothing manufacturing industry in New Zealand, it was not as detrimental as the license drop. 1992 brought the removal of clothing importing licenses. This meant that any nation could export clothing to New Zealand. Tariffs slowly declined and eventually by 2009 the tariff was at 10% and had then completely ceased by 2010.
Once tariffs had declined and importing was made possible and accessible New Zealand became a large and popular market to export clothing to. In just one year (1989-1999) importing clothing amounted from $129 million to $600 million. You can find these and more facts and statistics here. Not only did importing clothing rise, but prices dropped, making buying clothing cheaper. However it was commented that the quality of the garments reflected the price.
Mass-marketed clothing manufacturing in New Zealand took a significant strike when New Zealand's largest clothing manufacturers Pacific Brands and Lane Walker Rudkin discontinued due to lack of market.
Consequently clothing producers in New Zealand focused on Niché markets who use the term "Made in New Zealand as a selling point. Brands such as Untouched World and Icebreaker use New Zealand fabrics such as fine merino knitwear. In fact Icebreaker goes as far as giving each garment their own tag explaining where the sheep that grew the wool, was once located in New Zealand. High fashion bands such as Miss Crabb have a limited production yet are proud to be New Zealand made.


Saturday, 13 April 2013

Introduction to Clothing Manufacturing NZ:

New Zealand Clothing manufacturing is unfortunately a dying industry. This is an issue that needs to be resolved.
New Zealand owned clothing producers are demising. Asian competitors are becoming the only choice for many labels. They offer a company the convenience of a cheap, fast and effective service. Recently garment manufacturing in New Zealand has become even more difficult as the government has removed many essential importing regulations between New Zealand and China. The label that has become increasingly familiar "Made in China" is often a result of sweatshops in China which undertake extreme methods including child labor to produce garments at fast rates and cheaply. This video showcases such environments; 
Understandably, it is a belief, that our larger clothing businesses need the facilities of Asian Clothing manufacturing as our current New Zealand services will not suffice with large orders in the regards to resources. A pattern which is apparent, is that the only demographic which currently supports the New Zealand clothing manufacturing industry are niche markets. Markets which are independently owned, boutique retail stores. Companies such as MW clothing provide services for these particular markets.
MW for example, only have 30-60 staff sewing machines, which make it rather difficult to take on large projects. According to Mike Stevenson and Fay Jones from MW clothing, a lack of sewers, which skills cater for the quality required at MW, are found to be few and far between. This is because many expert sewers in New Zealand are at retirement age, such employees were taught sewing to a high level when the clothing manufacturing business in New Zealand was exceptionally profitable and booming and when importing and exporting was much more difficult. 
The benefits of supporting Clothing manufacturing in New Zealand, is because we are simply backing a locally owned, locally quality controlled industry. It would be a wise investment as New Zealand is already rich with the resources required, fabrics such as- wool and merino. One must support this dying industry and the effort to find a solution to this issue.

Links/Resources

WHK Group. (2011). MW Clothing- Made in New Zealand. Retrieved from http://www.whk.co.nz/nelson/news/mw-clothing-made-in-new-zealand.html

Jane Tolerton. (2012). Clothing and Footwear manufacturing-From Mass Market to Niche market. Retrieved from http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/clothing-and-footwear-manufacturing/page-3

Phil O'Reilly. (2011). Manufacturing Perspectives. Retrieved from http://www.businessnz.org.nz/file/897/MANUFACTURING%20PERSPECTIVES.pdf

Angela Finn and Joan Farrer. (2009). Full circle: the future of sustainable fashion manufacturing in New Zealand. Retrieved from http://www.academia.edu/494807/Full_circle_the_future_of_sustainable_fashion_manufacturing_in_New_Zealand

Diana Clement. (2011). Stitching up a fair deal. Retrieved from http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10744939

http://designerdirection.wordpress.com/2009/07/26/made-in-china-consumption-versus-conscience/